Early on prone to a superstitious misconception that my artistic bent was most kindred to the workings of other Aquarians, I studied all of Mozart's letters to his father and sister, which in retrospect all read like they were written by a five-year-old, not a genius with the gift to replicate divinity with sound. He was shockingly idiotic, which I guess is what inspired a portrayal of him as being impish and clown-like in "Amadeus", but I have an idea that he was not nearly as lovable as his screen version or someone would have tossed in a few coins for a headstone for his burial.
We don't know where his bones lie, but that's no tragedy. Bones have no value. The tragedy is in his life, in the ignorance of the boorish aristocracy who are at fault for making his living a misery. No artist should be made to perform like a monkey for other monkeys.
The patronage system is still very much around today, and dictates what hangs on the walls in museums, whether the ABT will have a full season, whether Freddy can buy oil paints or only food. It's very sad, the dependence we have on the snootiness of Guggenheims and Rockefellers and myopic academics to know what good art is. In Mozart's time it was just a matter of who had the money; now it's a matter of who has a yearning to see something beautiful made, because the general public obviously does not.
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TRAVEL NOTES ON THE CITY OF MUSIC
Vienna is one of the most beautiful cities in the world. Very clean, safe, heaven for tourists; the subways are spotless and antiseptic, and people are reserved but painstakingly polite. The glorious architecture in the center of the city is the world's best example of lovingly preserved Enlightenment. The Viennese have been enlightened for centuries. Mozart's music makes sense there; Beethoven's seems out of place. Vienna today does not seem a place wired for the conducting of storms.
If you were Jewish however, you might have plenty to be angry about in Vienna, which explains at least partially some of the madness of Schoenberg. It does not explain Hugo Wolf.
Vienna is a terrible place for food; bring sandwiches from abroad. The recipe for Schnitzel, the national dish of which they are so proud, follows thusly: pound the shit out of a cube of pork until it looks like cardboard, and fry it in breadcrumbs without any seasoning. The result tastes like it looks it might, no different than fried cardboard.
In Vienna one's food allowance is more wisely spent on beer. Viennese water, the only other recommendation for the palate, is as pure and sparkling as a Mozart Symphony, and is free of charge.
